A Guide to Bespoke.

Initial Sketches, CAD model, Hand made in progress, a finished CAD piece.

Alongside repairs, a good part of what I do is bespoke, or commission work as some may know it. Making a piece from start to finish including initial discussions and sketches.

I lose more bespoke enquiries due to timescales than anything else. From the outside I can understand why this can look a bit long winded. But it can be a long and involved process. So what's the process for bespoke pieces?

First steps: The enquiry and initial consultation.

It starts with an email, web chat or phone call. Personally I prefer emails as they are easier to reply to at a convenient time and add images or other details. This is the initial contact where information is a little loose, is it possible, how much, how long and all that, often leading to more questions than answers. Once the bespoke Terms and Conditions are submitted and agreed, it tends to lead on to an in-person meeting if local , more emails or on rare occasions, a web meeting to discuss it further.

The bespoke terms and conditions set out what both parties can expect and up front charges. It covers an initial consultation and basic sketches, explains copyright, payments and when they are needed. I never used to charge an initial fee, but have had to make the difficult decision to implement this. This is simply because many enquiries go cold after spending a few hours on each. When you add this up over a year, it's quite a bit. Sketches are sketches, not full blown hand painted or CAD (Computer Aided Design) colour renderings. Sketches are there to roughly layout the design so we can both understand it in a visual way. If you want a CAD rendering, it depends on if it's a piece that's going to be designed and made by the CAD/casting process or not. If it's handmade, this doesn't really apply. A hand painted rendering is available at an additional cost, but remember this is effectively commissioning a painting. Step Two: The estimate and predicted timescales.

I provide estimates, not quotes. There's an important legal definition here as estimates are flexible, quotes are not. If I provide you with an estimate now and you give the go ahead in a month, but the cost of materials has increased, so will the cost to you. Usually if we are talking a month between estimate and proceed, not much changes, but if it's a couple of years, a lot can change. It's always best to respond to an estimate as soon as possible. Timescale is the awkward one. "Can't you just order stones and metal, make it up and have it ready for the end of the week?" I have been asked this before and the simple answer is no. This questions assumes several things;

1. The right stones and materials are available from stock for next day delivery.

2. The ordered materials are correct when received.

3. There are no postal strikes or other mess ups.

4. That I have no other client obligations at the time.

5. That the piece is legal to be sold and described without a hallmark (which is unlikely).

6. That I can switch to special techniques if required with no delay (see below).

7. That it all goes to plan.

8. I have nothing else going on external to working on bespoke pieces (a very important one).

Step Three: Sourcing.

If I'm buying fresh metal to make your piece, I can, in theory, order the right dimensions of metal for most things and it arrive within a couple of days. If you need different dimensions of metal or alloys made, it can take longer.

Ordering a Diamond could be as simple as getting something next day delivery. To get a better price or the specific thing you're looking for, it could take longer, possibly 2-3 weeks, maybe even longer.

Coloured stones usually have to be seen to be approved as a "Purplish Red Ruby" could be very different in your "mind's eye" to mine. Between ordering to approval by the client, this could easily be a couple of weeks. If you are trying to match a stone, e.g. you have an Emerald and want another to match. It could take much longer getting your stone to a dealer (possibly several) to find a match which could take a month, even then it may need re-cutting to size or shape, which could add anything from a couple of weeks to a couple of months, depending on the cutting style. Matching a good Opal is almost impossible.

A selection of gemstones are held in stock, but many others are obtainable.

Step Four: Making.

Okay, all the materials are in place, let's make this thing! Normal techniques, no problem. These slot in with the regular work flow and don't need workshop adjustments to get it done. If a special technique is needed such as Mokume Gane, enamelling or inlay, this involves rearranging the workshop to suit the technique, which tends to be done in batches to reduce down time. Some techniques are more physically challenging for me, such as stone setting and engraving, as I am a manual worker and don't use pneumatic machines and microscopes. This means I can't sit all day engraving or setting and need breaks. Some engraving I outsource as it's not my speciality, which can add 6-8 weeks.

The process of handmaking settings in 18ct white gold.

Step Five: Hallmarking.

Why is this a separate step? Because it is. Hallmarking is a legal requirement in the UK for precious metals with very few exceptions. In general hallmarking takes around 2 weeks from sending the item out, to receiving the parcel back. It doesn't stop there. Occasionally, not very often, a hallmark is incorrectly applied. The most common are the wrong sponsors mark added (sometimes stamped over again, which thins the metal) or put in the wrong place. Sometimes this can be salvaged, but not always. What has happened a few times in recent years is the hallmarking process damaging the piece by marks being applied too hard and thinning or bending pieces beyond recovery. If this happens, we're back to Step 4 again.

An example of a stamped hallmark on silver.

Step Six: Finishing.

As hallmarking can cause damage or deformation of the metal, many processes are completed after hallmarking. This can include setting, engraving, enamelling, polishing or applying special surface finishes. Step Seven: Delivery.

It's all complete, finished and ready for delivery. Final payments need to be made and delivery arranged via post, courier or in person. Some don't pay immediately, so delays can come in there also. Step Eight: Write a Stunning Google Review.

Funnily enough, a step that's out of my control and many forget to do. Seriously, there's no pressure, but they are helpful to any small business.

A Summary of Timescale.

Initial communications: Up to 1 week.

Initial consultation: Usually within 2 weeks. Initial sketches, estimated cost and timescales: 1 week, maybe 2 if it's busy or needs more specialist research.

Sourcing materials: 2 days to 6 weeks.

Making: typically 2 to 4 weeks, but may be longer during busy times.

Hallmarking: 2 weeks.

Finishing: 1-3 weeks depending on techniques.

Delivery: Less than a week if postal, up to 2 if international or arranging face to face.

The best case scenario: 10 weeks (2.5 months) start to finish.

Usual timescale: 12 -14 (3-3.5 months) weeks start to finish. Worst case scenario: 21 weeks (just over 5 months). Disaster (having to start again due to damage or loss): Another 6-17 weeks (as we've already covered consultation, design and estimated costs).. Other factors can include postal strikes, geopolitical situations, other commitments and the time of year (if we hit Christmas, everyone shuts down for a couple of weeks). If you want a guaranteed delivery date, I will do my best, but I can't offer definitive delivery guarantees. If I had a team of people and I was only using stock pieces for gemstones, it would be easier, but it's just me trying to find, and make, you the perfect piece. An important thing to remember is prompt replies and instructions can speed up the initial stages. Thanks for reading, Best wishes,

Damian